COLOMBIA
Magical Realism
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Winding rivers, snow-topped mountains, humid jungles, bustling metropolitans, volcanos - Colombia has the 2nd highest bio-diversity, the largest number of terrestrial mammals and birds in the world. Here, you’ll find monkeys, exotic birds, bears and pink dolphins to name just a few. The country is oxygenated by the Amazon, has the north-face bordered by the Caribbean and the Pacific Ocean on the west. You’ll find the most friendly and welcoming people, great food, exotic fruits and lots of music/dancing.
I write this travel guide as a tourist in my own country, as I hope to convey the many facets of this colourful and vibrant land. So welcome to my Colombia trip guide, I hope you enjoy!
Bogota
Advised 3-4 days
It is the third highest capital in the world. The weather is around 15°C, chilly at night and warmer during the day. The forecast is quite unpredictable, so always to carry an umbrella and layers of clothes. Sunblock is a must in this city, as you will be 2600 meters closer to the sun.
Where to visit?
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Monserrate
The most breathtaking view of Bogota lies 3,152 meters above the sea level, where the Spaniards built a church to protect the city. There are 3 ways to go up to Monserrate: the cable car, train or walking. I highly recommend not to walk up if you haven’t spent at least a week training in this altitude. You can enjoy the view during the day time, hopefully on a sunny day, or at night. There is a little market where you can try typical food, buy souvenirs and the famous coca leaf tea, which will help you if you get lightheaded due to the altitude. Don’t forget to bring a jumper, as the higher you are in Colombia the colder that it gets.
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La Candelaria
The historic city centre of the city offers free walking tours that will explain the history of the country, starting from the native indigenous tribes through colonialism and independence. This tour will make you understand why Colombia is so diverse in its culture, heritage, and people.
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Gold Museum
This museum is like no other you have seen in the world, it is considered one of the most fascinating museums in Latin America, and it holds over 55 thousand gold pieces from before the colonialism. It is located in the centre of the city, therefore it is advisable to do the Candelaria tour, Monserrate and the gold museum on the same day.
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Emerald Museum
Colombia is the biggest producer of Emeralds in the world. Visiting this museum is quite interesting and insightful, it doesn't take much time from your time and is located next to the Gold Museum.
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Usaquen
If you happen to be in Bogota on a Sunday, you must go to the artisan fair of Usaquen. This neighbourhood of Bogota in the north of the city used to be a nearby village but the city has grown so much that now far away from the outskirts. It is filled with amazing cuisine, beautiful colonial architecture, and a great music scene at night. A must try restaurant here is El Arca.
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Paloquemao
It is one of the biggest and most important markets in Colombia, it exists from 1860 where the government forbade the markets at the main square of Bogota. What is the beauty of this place? If you are a foodie person, you will be fascinated by all the ingredients, which supply the best restaurants of the country, and especially by the vast variety of fruits, you can really go crazy trying them all for very little money. Here the ‘regateo’ is well known, where you can negotiate the prices and perhaps ask for ‘La ñapa’ when you buy something, and they will give you an extra gift.
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Guatavita
Have you heard of the legend of El Dorado? Or perhaps watched the Disney movie with the same name? Although Disney chose to place this famous legend in Mexican territory, the real origin lies in the lake of Guatavita. You can head to the North bus terminal of Bogota and ask for a bus that takes you to Guatavita. This beautiful white village is approximately one hour from Bogota; you can spend the day walking through the beautiful stoned streets, having delicious lunch at their typical restaurants and buying Artisan Crafts. From here, there are minibuses that take you on a tour of the Lake, where you are taken by an indigenous native descendant to discover this magical lake. The guide will tell you amazing stories about the history of the lake, the tribes that used to live here and hidden nature knowledge, like medicinal plants. Please bring a jumper to the lake as it located 3000 metres above the sea level.
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Zipaquira’s Salt Cathedral
From the north bus terminal, you can also take a bus to the village of Zipaquira, where a Cathedral was built 200 meters underground inside a Salt mine. Not only is the architecture of this place unbelievable, but also the colourful light display makes this place very unique. There are many activities to do here, like walking around the vast Cathedral, creating your own explosion, zip lines, climbing walls, and visiting the museums.
Where to eat?
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La Puerta Falsa
The first restaurant in Bogota, it is a very small restaurant at the heart of the city. It is very popular, so I recommend not going during rush hour (12-1pm). It has the best typical foods from Bogota, like the Ajiaco (for lunch) and Tamal with hot chocolate (breakfast) or hot chocolate with Almojabana or Pan de Yuca for an afternoon snack. If the restaurant is too full, you can try going to the restaurants next to it that follow the same traditions.
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Andres Carne de Res
During the day time, it’s an amazing place to have lunch, I highly recommend Parrillada and the Arepa de Choclo. At night, you cannot miss this place to party! You will never forget it. There is one inside Bogota called ‘Andred DC’ and another one in the outskirts of the city, the original ‘Andres Carne de Res’. Although, it’s a bit pricey compared to other restaurants it’s worth paying for.
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El Arca
This restaurant offers a fusion between the typical food of Cali and Bogota. Located in the beautiful neighbourhood of Usaquen, the menu is almost entirely based on fried plantain and you cannot leave Colombia without trying the ‘Lulada’ drink, which is made out of the Colombian fruit Lulo. If you are a meat lover, I recommend the 'Lomo al Trapo', literally translated as "beef tenderloin in a towel," it's made by wrapping a beef tenderloin in a thick crust of salt swaddled in a towel, tying it up, and throwing it directly on a fire until it's cooked.
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Empanaditas de Pipian
Empanadas are typical from Spain and many countries of Latin America, each country has its own twist to it. In Colombia, there are many different kinds of Empanadas that are found in this chain restaurant in Bogota. My recommendation is the Empanada de Pipian, typical from a city called Popayan in the southwest of the country, they are quite tiny so make sure to grab a few with lemon on top. Also, an Empanada de Queso is the second must try at this place for an afternoon snack. They also sell very typical Colombian refreshing drinks that you won't find anywhere else in the world like Lulada, Champus, Salpitronco, Avena Helada and Masato. My personal favourite is the Lulada followed by the Salpitronco.
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Crepes & Waffles
It started as a University project, and now is one of the favourite chain restaurants found all over the country, there is also one at the airport. They have savoury food as well as sweets, their salty crepes, pancook and salads are filled with delicious combinations as the pictures show below, the juices are quite original, and the desserts are to die for. I recommend arriving pretty hungry to be able to taste different things. They also have one of the best Brunch of the city.
MEDELLIN
Advisable 3 days
Medellin the city of eternal spring, where the weather is around 25°C all year long. It has a bad reputation from a tough period of time during the 80s and 90s. Now, it is considered Colombia’s capital of fashion and in 2013 was named the most innovative city in the world.
What to do?
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Hop-on Hop-off bus
The best way to visit the tourist places of Medellin is with a 2-day bus tour ticket, as the tourist places are quite far from each other. This bus stop includes Botero Museum, the Park of Wishes where you can walk to the Botanic park of the city and watch the orchids and massive but friendly lizards, Pueblito, which is a replica of a typical village of Antioquia and you can have from here one of the best views of the city.
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Guatape
Near Medellin, you can have a tour to Guatape, a colourful village at the north of the city, where you can visit its beautiful picturesque streets and most importantly visit La Piedra del Peñol, a massive rock in the middle of beautiful turquoise lakes.
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Cuisine in Medellin
In most places in Colombia you don’t pay for the quality of food, but the ‘fanciness’ of the restaurant. If you see a restaurant that looks not so great but it’s full of people, it must have delicious and very affordable food. Don’t be afraid to enter these places, especially in the centre of the city next to the Botero Museum.
 Bandeja Paisa, the most traditional dish of the region |  Calenta'o: typical breakfast made with dinner's leftovers |  Arepa de Chocolo con queso |
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 Buñuelos |  Frijolada |
COFFEE TRIANGLE
The Colombian coffee Region, or “Eje Cafetero” in Spanish, is a part of the Colombian Paisa region in the rural area of Colombia. It is famous for growing and producing prized bean Colombian coffee.
To coffee enthusiasts, the coffee produced in Colombia is considered by many the best in the world and has been distributed to more than 90 countries worldwide, making Colombia the third biggest producer in the world.
Where to go?
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La RECUCA
or ‘Recorrido cultural de cafe’, is the place to have a full day coffee experience, and the best you’ll have in the world. The guides have a very good sense of humour and banter, which is typical from the people of this region of Colombia. They will welcome you with a cup of the best quality Colombian coffee, take you through the coffee fields to explain you the process of producing it, dress you up in typical clothing from the region, teach you how to dance, let you take lots of pictures with the customers and the typical houses and jeeps, give you a theatrical show, teach you how to taste coffee and give you a full amazing typical lunch. All for only $25,000 Colombian pesos (around $8 US dollars)
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Coffee Park
A fun amusement park with beautiful scenery including a trail of orchids, coffee museum and coffee plantation. However, the best thing about this place is the Coffee show that is held once a day, where you can learn the history of coffee in Colombia through a dance performance of the different typical dances and costumes of the different regions of the country. The restaurants are good and sell a variety of typical Colombian food and of course Juan Valdez coffee. It is advisable to bring a change of clothing if you want to go to the water attractions!
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Santa Rosa de Cabal thermals
Here you can find pools with water warmed from the nearby volcanoes. This water is said to have healing properties and is a beautiful place to relax.
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Valle del Cocora
This natural park holds the tallest palm trees in the world. Although there aren’t many left due to the exporting of palm oil, the landscapes are still breathtaking. If you are a fan of walking or horse-riding, spending a whole day or half-day would be magical. There is also the option to go camping at the top of the mountains, although it is chilly you may be lucky enough to see bears and tigers.
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Salento
The village next to the Valle del Cocora has beautiful colourful houses and streets. It is very famous for its trouts, almost any restaurant you find will have delicious trouts served with cheese or shrimp sauces, and of course on top of a huge fried plantain.
CARIBBEAN
Rainforests, crystal waters, sandy beaches, tropical islands, high peak mountains and extended deserts. Colombia's Caribbean coast is the most diverse in the world.
Cartagena
The capital of tourism and UNESCO world heritage. The city is divided by two: the Old Town, founded in the 16th century with a colourful colonial architecture, cobblestone streets and surrounded by a wall that used to protect her from pirates. Moreover, the New City, located outside the walls, is very modern and filled with skyscrapers and different businesses.
What to do?
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Walk the streets of the Old Town
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Visit the Mud Volcano
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Day trip to Islas del Rosario
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Day trip to Baru island
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The city tours are easily found at the different tourist centres of the old town; they aren't easy to miss out
What to eat?
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Arepa de huevo
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Casuela de mariscos
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Mojarra or Pargo Frito
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Patacones
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Ceviche
Tips:
✓ Don't drink the tap water, and always ask for no ice in beverages (this is the case for all the Caribbean coast, in the interior of the country the tap water is very clean)
✓ Do not buy seafood at the beach from mobile vendors, even if it is inside a mini fridge.
✓ Always check the price before ordering something, negotiate to get a lower fare and then double check the bill before paying (some tourists get massively overcharged by if they aren't careful)
Tayrona National Park
Everyone has a different favourite place in Colombia, but this place is my personal favourite. Tayrona is a natural park that begins in white sand beaches with crystal waters.
You can take a coach from the bus terminal of Santa Marta, Barranquilla or any other coastal city (ask your hotel where to get the bus to Tayrona). From the entrance, you can go through the rainforest to the beach by foot, horse or boat:
• By foot: I recommend putting your luggage on a horse that will arrive at the beach and discover the beautiful path by foot. If you walk without too much noise, you could be lucky enough to find friendly monkeys passing by in the tree branches with their babies. If you do see monkeys, please do not feed them.
• Horse: Unless you are an experienced horse rider, I don't recommend it, as it's a scary ride through the jungle, going up/down hills and rocks. I've done it once, and I won't do it again.
• Boat: They depart from the city of Taganga, arrive at the beach by 8 am and ask the locals where to find the boat to Tayrona. The boats come back every day at 3 pm and 4 pm, so you can choose to stay for a day or longer.
• By foot: I recommend putting your luggage on a horse that will arrive at the beach and discover the beautiful path by foot. If you walk without too much noise, you could be lucky enough to find friendly monkeys passing by in the tree branches with their babies. If you do see monkeys, please do not feed them.
• Horse: Unless you are an experienced horse rider, I don't recommend it, as it's a scary ride through the jungle, going up/down hills and rocks. I've done it once, and I won't do it again.
• Boat: They depart from the city of Taganga, arrive at the beach by 8 am and ask the locals where to find the boat to Tayrona. The boats come back every day at 3 pm and 4 pm, so you can choose to stay for a day or longer.
General Recommendations:
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Before planning your trip, check the government website to check when it’s open, as once a year, it is closed to the public for restorations.
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The best time to arrive is in the morning as it can get quite warm in the afternoon and the entrance closes at 5 pm.
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When you arrive at the entrance, you can book a tent or bring your own equipment. Check the prices there or ask for the PDF with prices on WhatsApp +57 311 2589907, as staff members can push prices up or create narratives to charge more. Unfortunately, I got fooled by a very "friendly" staff member. I questioned him about the price, and he said that now the charge per day (this isn't true)
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The best choice is to buy a compact hammock with a mosquito net so you don't get bitten at night. The temperature is around 20 °C at night and 30 °C during the day. This is the one I got, and it was very comfortable and didn't get bitten by mosquitos, it is much better than the they offer where tons of people sleep in and the mosquito nests aren't attached to the hammock.
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There are also lockers where you can keep all your stuff, showers, toilets and a restaurant with delicious fresh smoothies. There are also small stands at the beach selling tasty and cheap food freshly made daily.
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It's essential to take lots of water (I take gallons because I drink lots of water and usually stay for 5 days). Take snacks, so you don't have to rely on the restaurant.
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You can make day trips to the different beaches, hike to visit 'Pueblito’, an indigenous village and go snorkelling.
I've been 4 times staying in hammocks at Cabo San Juan. My last experience wasn't great, as staff members kept trying to overcharge us, and many things got lost, like money, the locker key, swimming suits, shoes and sunblock. I was disappointed that it is no longer a place where belongings are safe, so if I ever go back (because the landscapes are worth it), I'll look for a hotel. This website gives recommendations of hotels in different areas of the Natural park at different rates.
What to bring:
• Locks to keep your personal belongings safe
• Toilet paper
• Sunblock
• Cash (no cards are accepted, and keep little cash in your pocket, as there are some pickpocket thieves)
• ID
• Comfy shoes for walking and flip-flops to use in the communal bathrooms
• Flashlight (as there is limited electricity)
• Mosquito repellent
• Lots of water, drinking tap water will make you ill, and the store only sells tiny plastic bottles of water
• Clothes that dry out quickly
• A jacket in case you get cold at night; sometimes, it can get windy, especially in December.
The Lost City
If you prefer the mountains, then The Lost City is your destination. You can choose between a 4-6 day hike through the rainforest, where each day you will relax at a camp base with natural pools, food and a hammock.
Many companies arrange this tour, including accommodation, food, and a native guide.
Guajira
The most northern part of Colombia is a vast desert that clashes with the Caribbean. You can visit the Salt Flats at Manaure, the Flamenco Sanctuary and Cabo de la Vela, where you can relax at the beach or surf.
Cabo de la Vela
Belonging to the indigenous people, be mindful of their rules as they are very kind and somewhat shy people that will be happy to receive you, accommodate you with a hammock, and provide you with food. They are best known for their exotic knitting (their handbags and other Crafts have travelled the world). To get here you can take a bus from any city to Tres Vias, and from here you need to negotiate a car to take you to Punta, but don’t arrive late as there is no electricity, no roads, just a desert with quicksands that car might not able to see when it gets dark at 6 pm.
The best option to visit La Guajira is to do it with an organised tour. There are a few companies that offer different options, this tour is one of them that my friend used, whilst travelling alone and she had a wonderful time.
San Andrés y Providencia
They are two islands in the Caribbean, San Andres being the most touristic of the two, where you can do lots of water sports at the ‘Sea of the Seven Colours’, which you'll see from the plane's window.
A brief history
These islands have been in a lengthy dispute; since Christopher Columbus arrived in 1502, the Spanish, British and Dutch Empire have invaded them. It was the operation base of the English pirate Henry Morgan and had under the administration of the Real Audiencia de Panamá, Capitanía General de Guatemala and finally, the Viceroyalty of New Granada, Bogota being the capital of this last jurisdiction of the Spanish Empire. Once Simón Bolívar fought for the independence of the country, these Islands were part of Cartagena’s providence, and a Treaty was signed between Colombia and Nicaragua, where the first country will keep San Andres and Providencia, and the second one the Mosquitos Coast, which was also part of the Viceroyalty of Nueva Granada. In modern days Nicaragua has claimed the ownership of these islands due to their geographical closeness, for which Colombia accepted to give the Roncador, Serrana y Quitasueños Keys, that were not part of the 1928 Treaty.
By looking at the pictures of these islands, you can understand why everyone wants to own them.
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More outstanding places
 Caño CristalesConsidered the most beautiful river in the world |  Tatacoa DesertSecond largest arid zone in Colombia after La Guajira |  Chicamocha CanyonThe canyon is the second-deepest worldwide |
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 AmazonFly to Leticia to have a once in a life time experience at the lungs of the world |  Gorgona IslandAt the Pacific Ocean, where whales come in July to teach their calves how to jump |
Tropical Fruits
 MaracujáOr passionfruit, is well known to have it as fruit or ice-cream |  PapayuelaIt typical from the Andes mountains, it is used to make a traditional dessert of 'Dulce de papayuela' |  CurubaIt's English name 'Banana-passionfruit' describes the unique taste of this native fruit commonly used in juices (best with milk) |
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 ArazáIs a fruit from the Amazon, you can have it in special places as juice or ice-cream |  PitayaSweet and soft on the inside. Eat just half of it a day. It is great if you have constipation. |  PapayaYou can try this fruit with honey on top, or in juice with lemon squeeze. |
 FeijoaSour tiny fruit, you can eat it as fruit or as juice. |  GranadillaVery sweet fruit, that you open and eat it without bitting the seeds |  MamoncilloSour and tiny fruit, where only the inside is eaten. Be careful not to swallow it or eat the seed inside |
 LuloIt is a very sour fruit that you can have in juice (try it with milk if you want it less sour). And the main ingredient of my favourite drink in the world: Lulada |  GuayabaThere are many types of guayaba, they have different sizes, colours and tastes. A typical dessert made with this fruit is called 'Bocadillo' and is normally eaten with a slide of cheese |  CarambolaIt is great for salads or desserts |
 GuanábanaIt has an aromatic, sweet&sour taste, usually consumed in sweets, ice-creams and juices (best with milk) |  TamarindoA sour fruit, perfect for a delicious and refreshing juice |  Mangostino |
 UchuvaNative from South-america, this sweet&sour fruit is used to make yogurts and different desserts |  ChontaduroIt's typical from the Pacific coast, it's a great source of proteins, oils, minerals, and vitamins. Also, an acquired taste |  BorojóTypical from the Amazon and pacific coast, is traditionally used in jam, desserts, ice cream, and candies |
 KiwiA must try is the kiwi juice and add lemon if you want an extra sour twist |  MangoThere are different types of mango. They are typically eaten with salt and lemon. Some people add vinegar give an extra punch |  NísperoTypical from the Caribbean region |
 ZapoteTypical from the Caribbean region |
ENJOY COLOMBIA
I am very proud to be from this beautiful and wild country, with spectacular natural wonders, delicious cuisine, fascinating history and amazing people, wherever you choose to go in Colombia you are guaranteed to have an adventure.
With love, Natalia